Karl Lagerfeld and Silvia Venturini Fendi always manage to see furs through the prism of total style. For Fendi’s Pre-Fall collection, they presented a louche ready-to-wear lineup inspired by haute bedwear. Clearly, these were not robes to be worn while making breakfast in the morning. Indeed, these were robes that had shed their boudoir air—mink taking the place of marabou (or possibly flannel)—courtesy of one of Lagerfeld’s ingenious injections of street. The result was revitalized outerwear that will fit into the lives of a younger generation of shoppers who have little interest in luxurious furs as an indicator of wealth.
Many of the bathrobe-style coats and vests in bobcat, mink, sable, and fox were worn over trousers and elevated platform slippers or trekking shoes decorated with strips of shearling. The slim pants came in terrific colors like teal, blush pink, and terra-cotta; some had a quirky trumpetlike ankle detail. Asian influences came into play, too, in a series of pieces inspired by the ancient hand-dyeing technique of shibori, Japan’s answer to tie-dye. Geometric and organic patterns painstakingly reproduced in nuanced color combinations lent an artisanal aspect to the collection and an ineffable sense of cool.
The bedroom mood continued from beginning to end: There were rich-looking shawl-collar pantsuits rendered in a graphic diamond print, and a standout velvet jumpsuit that was evocative of a smoking suit. Tracing a line between parties outside and gatherings inside the home, a few evening dresses took their cue from nightdresses.
A myriad of new accessories accompanied the looks. There was an emphasis on exotic skins like silver python and supple lizard, and a multitude of interchangeable straps in leathers, shearling, and fur ensured there was nothing sleepy about this offering.
